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Glad you found it useful! Sometimes I feel I'm rambling too much but I enjoy making this style of tutorial video, rather than something more controlled in a studio. And yeah I noticed that too! Lots of people wondering what we're up to. :)

Yeah, I noticed that, but I'm sure it's because the WHOLE time I'm taking directly into the camera. In other videos I spent a lot of time shooting and talking seemingly to myself, so people tend to look at ME and not into the video camera. When the look at me, you don't noticed them but when they look in the camera you make eye contact with them and it's very jarring. Giving the impression of a fighter? I love it! I take that as a compliment. I'm glad I look badass enough to be in a movie like Blood Sport haha. Dzięki! :)

Totally agree! It's not meant to be prescriptive but just an overview of how I do it. And then it's up to each individual to take the bits that are useful for them. The Winogrand Kung Fu (Wing Chun?) is key in many cases haha! :)

Matrix works almost as well for me, but I do prefer average. :)

Thanks!! Glad it's useful! :)

I think there is no exposure compensation in M on GRII. They added that on grIII if im not mistaken, where menu wheel controls exp. compensation in manual mode.

The only way exposure compensation won't work is if you don't have any of the settings on auto.

On the GR II you want to use TAv not M. On most cameras M refers to manual shutter and aperture, but ISO is a separate setting, so you can set Manual + Auto ISO (this is called TAv on the GR II) or Manual + Manual ISO (called Manual on the GR II). The GR III did away with TAv and just has an M mode on the dial and ISO is set separately. Hope that helps! :)

You have to go the Custom Settings menu, section B, Metering/Exposure, and find the option called Center-weighted area. It's b5 on my camera but it might vary. :)

Awesome! Thank you! Yes, that is the F-mount 28 f/1.4E. It's my favorite lens of the last few years! :)

@@EYExplore Well noted. Thank you! By the way, it seems all camera brand not interested to release native fast AF 28mm lens for mirrorless. Fujifilm has its equivalent but it is in APSC. I like this focal length a lot.

Thank you! Glad to hear that!! :)

Oh, I love it!! I will pin this comment! And I'll just add how to enable the full-frame average metering mode on Nikon Z cameras: you have to go the Custom Settings menu, section B (Metering/Exposure), and find the option called Center-weighted area. It's b5 on my camera but it might vary. Thanks for the awesome summary! :)

Yes, that's a great idea! I didn't mention it in the video but I do use the front Fn buttons to quickly change focus modes. I like to go to the normal Wide Area AF mode and the let camera choose the subject in moments where I don't have enough time to put the 3D tracking box on my preferred subject. :)

Haha, yeah I talk too fast! But I like to cram a lot info into a shorter video. It def helps to re-watch. But this is something I should work on. You are correct: exp comp in combo with M + Auto ISO. You're right it does not display the ISO until half-press. This is where the top LCD is very nice on larger cameras, but on my GR I just check in the moment and if I have to adjust shutter/aperture I can do it pretty quickly and easily with the camera help up in shooting position. And I should have mentioned WB! I forgot because I never think about it. It's on Auto forever haha.

Interesting, so you go the other way: a smaller center! The problem for me with that is that I often put subjects far from the center of the frame. But coupled with AE-L that makes sense, especially if you use it as a toggle. I find the exposure comp to be so quickly accessible that I prefer it. Also it allows fine-tuning, while with AE-L if you don't like the exposure you have to go lock onto something else, or at that point end up using exposure comp anyway. But I'm glad it works for! :)

@@EYExplore Yeah you probably don't have the hammy hands I do ;) I can never seem to find it comfortable to hold the exposure comp button and turn the dial. Anyway, exposure compensation is not really necessary for me since I frame as much of the central circle as I need for the correct exposure. So for example if I only frame 50% of a light in the center, then the other 50% of the center is dark, which is like raising the exposure by a stop or so compared to having 100% of the light in the center. Once I tried it, something clicked for me and it is the easiest way for me to find the right exposure.

Haha, well the Yakuza games are modeled on real life really closely hahah. :)

Yeah, I've been using is since my D3 in like 2010 haha, but it has evolved into something truly amazing! :)

If have also the original z6, it’s not really reliable…so in my opinion it’s not the equivalent 😢

The closest option on the Z6 is the Subject Tracking mode, which is access by pressing the OK button while in the Wide Area AF mode. It functions like 3D Tracking but the tracking point is larger and not quite as reliable. It's not bad though and still useful. When I have a Z6II I used it often! :)

Thank you for watching! :)

And for the camera setting in question. I use average metering but center weighted. From my 5d days i used to shooting with only central dot and back button. Now i (with your reccomendation🙂) slowly switching to continious af with whole frame tracking. Which is not super amazing on x-h1, but definitely more useful than AF-S. paired with back button it allows same functionality as af-s with single dot anyway, if i press and release. I have 2 auto iso modes with 1/15 and 1/250 limit. Trying af-c definetly made shooting more enjoyable. And i know for raw it doesnt matter, but i shoot a lot of green like grass for example,and auto wb usually gives magenta cast in that case. I left wb set to daylight and found out that for the majority of my shots i like jpegs as is. Sure i can squeeze more dr out of raw files. Or just set shadows -2 in quick menu in super contrasty scene. Im talking like whole dr range. For example shooting from dim room outside, shadows can use some boost. In all the other cases, im talking noon sun with deep black shadows, i found resulting jpeg image with no adjustments true to live or at the very least i feel like time it will take me to edit raw and lift shadows is not really worth it. Im just hobbyist and im not saying everyone should shoot jpeg only with fixed WB. Im just glad i found out what works for me, and i can photograph and not think about it. Saying that, i need to give leica a try with their dngs and ricoh too😅

Yeah, that BBF pairing with AF-C is key! I generally keep the WB on auto but once in a while I do change if the photos are consistently coming out weird, such as in a forest or something (shade and greenery). But beyond that I save all my editing for the studio. I don't do any settings in camera. But I do spend a lot of time editing haha, so maybe it's a curse. :)

So glad to hear that!! :)

Yeah, I've been meaning to rent a tilt-shift lens and try it out but it's been on the back burner for a looooong time. :)

Glad you enjoy them and find them interesting! :)

Thank you for watching!! :)

Oh haha, right! It was some kind of construction going on. But not a car crash or I definitely would have commented on it. :)

Soon! :)

Thanks for watching! :)

:)

Big Booty Friend? :)

Nice!! Glad to hear we could help you make a decision. :)

Glad you enjoyed it! :)

Thank you! Got the Vivos a year ago. It's like a workout for my feet but I'm getting more and more used to them! Glad you like the vids! Chica will be back on the channel at some point for sure. :)

Was it my goal to please you? No. :) We did a video for the official channel with proper film: ruclips.net/video/_9sn-aaUhqU/видео.htmlsi=R5oEaqAMHxIUFpuE So, for our channel we wanted to do something different. Don't call us stupid. It's rude.

Wielkie dzięki! :)

Fajnie by było, gdyby zrobili pełnoklatkowy obiektyw z f/1.2. Może kiedyś. I bardzo dziękuję! Cieszę się, że książka się podoba! :)

OMG 1.3MP!!! What did you need all those pixels for?! Haha, yeah it's amazing how much this tech has developed over the years. Those early days were so interesting and futuristic despite being archaic by today's standards. :)

Yes, I do, but during the shooting of the video I was a bit unsure. I never use crop lenses or cameras so I never really think about these things until I had to explain them on camera. Shows you how little we prepare for these videos, haha. And AKSHUALLY, the crop factor for Nikon lenses is 1.53, so the effective FOV is equivalent to 41.31mm on full frame. 🤓🤓🤓

I never heard of Trevor Wallace haha. Do you mean I look kinda like him?

yeah, in my opinion you kinda look like him (except you have a beard lol) some mannerisms seem kind of similar, he moves in a similar fashion when doing some of his skits haha

@@CivilStig Haha, maybe we're related. :)

True.

@@EYExplore ever try to locate more gritty areas to photograph?

@@jamesgjurovich7893 of course! But Tokyo only gets so gritty. It's not like LA or something haha. :)

I was born in Poland and grew up in the US. :)

Definitely not! :)

I think any SD card will work? Or maybe it needs to be an old type SD card, not sure...

Glad to be helpful! :)

Yeah I agree. Sometimes, a simple photo is just pleasant to look at. Not every image needs to be revolutionary. There is pleasure in creating beauty yourself even if it's cliche. :)

Haha, yeah there are loads! :)

I just found out that the Yen has been crashing since before the pandemic. Do you think that it will continue to slide for the foreseeable future?

@@jamesgjurovich7893 LOL, I love the economy question to a photographer. I have no idea what will happen but here is what I do know: the BOJ raised rates last week and that strengthened the yen a lot and crashed the Japanese stock market (and other markets too). But since then the yen slipped back down a bit. I think the yen strengthening is dependent on the the US FED lowering rates, but who knows when that will happen. ;)

I do live in Japan! I'm not sure about a specific arts district, but the area around Noge and Chinatown may have some artistic areas.

It's a very versatile lens for travel! And it's very sharp and a good price overall for what you get. :)

Glad you like 'em! Thank you! :)

Yeah so don't use it haha. It's not good for any cases, like at night in the city. It's basically for portraits in pretty even lighting, maybe landscapes too. :)

@@EYExplore Agreed, haven’t found much use for it at night and can’t use it with daylight sky scenes without heavy processing. I’ve found it gives a nice effect if your subject is in bright light and you want to introduce hard shadows.